Food
It’s obvious, but I’m going to say it: you need to populate your list with wines that go well with food. A steakhouse decked out with amazing verticals of German Rieslings, as much as I love them, doesn’t work. Nor do cult California Cabernet Sauvignons at a sushi joint. I’m the first to admit that it’s difficult to resist the urge to stock up on amazing wines, but if your kitchen is not turning out anything with an earthiness that could play well with a Vin Jaune, you should really pass.
Breadth
That said, you should also make sure there is something on your list for everyone. I’m not saying you need every wine or every region, but major styles that are in harmony with the menu should be represented (even if the sommelier doesn’t particularly like those styles, ahem, herself). It helps to ask some of your regular customers what they think is missing from the list.
That said, you should also make sure there is something on your list for everyone. I’m not saying you need every wine or every region, but major styles that are in harmony with the menu should be represented (even if the sommelier doesn’t particularly like those styles, ahem, herself). It helps to ask some of your regular customers what they think is missing from the list.
Pricing
What about pricing? I’ve heard lots of formulas over the years and the most popular seems is to have the average bottle price equal the price of two entrees. Fair enough. I’d say that 60% of the list should hover around this price point based on absolutely no research except my gut instinct.
What about pricing? I’ve heard lots of formulas over the years and the most popular seems is to have the average bottle price equal the price of two entrees. Fair enough. I’d say that 60% of the list should hover around this price point based on absolutely no research except my gut instinct.
Length
Finally, how many wines does a list need? Obviously, we’ve established that the length of the list does not automatically make it a great list. How long the wine list should be is difficult to determine, but I suspect this is usually dictated by the amount of proper store space more than anything. If we assume you’ve got as much space as you want, then the list is really a function of the food and the customers.
Finally, how many wines does a list need? Obviously, we’ve established that the length of the list does not automatically make it a great list. How long the wine list should be is difficult to determine, but I suspect this is usually dictated by the amount of proper store space more than anything. If we assume you’ve got as much space as you want, then the list is really a function of the food and the customers.
Physical Presentation
Ok, this has been the biggest sticking point with my latest project. The wine geeks favor some sort of book, a small book, but something with pages. The non-wine geeks favor a one-single-page format. Clearly this was more of a problem of length.
Ok, this has been the biggest sticking point with my latest project. The wine geeks favor some sort of book, a small book, but something with pages. The non-wine geeks favor a one-single-page format. Clearly this was more of a problem of length.
Still, this subheading gives me a fabulous excuse to mention the Aureole’s eWineBooks, they claim to be the world’s first wireless wine books (good luck getting one that works). Then there’s Clo Wine Bar’s iTune-esque wine menus beamed from overhead to the table, which becomes something of a touch screen. These e-novelties allow you to find wines and drill down on more information including tasting notes, varietals, and appellations.
Both of these last two innovations are way cool but with so much information at your fingertips, I’d miss the human interaction with a sommelier. I doubt either technology is going mainstream anytime soon.
PS – we’re still undecided.
Staff
All of the above said, my favorite wine lists are always the ones where the staff can talk you through it. You can have all the most gorgeous wines in the world on your list, but if a guest asks for help deciding between a Sancerre and a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and the server shrugs his shoulders, I’m sure you've just lost a wine sale when that table finally decides to just have a beer.
All of the above said, my favorite wine lists are always the ones where the staff can talk you through it. You can have all the most gorgeous wines in the world on your list, but if a guest asks for help deciding between a Sancerre and a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and the server shrugs his shoulders, I’m sure you've just lost a wine sale when that table finally decides to just have a beer.
Conclusion
So what makes a wine list great? I think a great wine list is one that is connected to the food served at the restaurant, one that reflects what your guests are looking for, and that can be delivered by a trained staff.
So what makes a wine list great? I think a great wine list is one that is connected to the food served at the restaurant, one that reflects what your guests are looking for, and that can be delivered by a trained staff.
So simple. Not so easy.
Pic: Rubber Slippers in Italy via flickr
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