Monday, April 5, 2010

Duck confit at Noah’s in Greenport

A new addition to the restaurant scene in Greenport, Noah’s, specializes in delicious small-plate seafood and a raw bar, but it was the duck confit that caught my eye. I’m predictable like that. And maybe ordering duck confit at a seafood-centric restaurant is not the best idea. Still, Long Island duck is as much of a local item as the seafood, so it’s not all that much of a stretch…

At first I was surprised that a duck confit dish would cost $23, but it turns out this is because two duck legs are served. I love duck confit of course, but maybe there’s a way to get a half portion next time?


The dish was served over a bed of lentils (with lardons of bacon) and bitter frisée. The duck meat was tender though not too ‘ducky’ or gamey in flavor. The dominant note of the dish was the earthiness imparted by the lentils with some relief via the frisée. I heart bacon, but it was lost as there is plenty of lovely fattiness in the skin of the duck, and the volume of lardons was not enough to season the dish. The skin itself was rendered and crispy.

So I do love my duck confit, but this is a fine example of why, in my opinion, a bright fruit acid counterpoint is important for a balanced dish.

PS – if you go there, have the gorgonzola rosemary French fries. Crazy cool little dish.

2 comments:

  1. Seriously, the gorgonzola french fries are outstanding!

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  2. Mmmm
    Can't keep Thirsty away from her duck!

    ReplyDelete